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Thursday, March 22, 2018

Tocache-Huanuco Peru March 21 2018

 Rained all night....heard thunder and rain beating down on the roof...actually enjoyed the sound but feared what morning might bring. Awoke to a steady drizzle and left in the same about 8;30am, . Road conditions for the 1st hour where sketchy with short gravel sections and numerous potholes....the rain making it difficult to see the hazards at speed....lento pero seguro...
I stopped for breakfast at an outdoor cafe in the pueblo Aucayacu...2 eggs on a bed of rice with 2 fried plantines, coffee...$5.00 soles=$1.55 US.
A chap on a bicycle stopped and sat at my table talking Spanish...I said ...lo siento no te entiendo...but he smile and I caught that he wanted to know where I was from...CANADA...his eyes brightened and with a big smile held out his hand welcoming me to his country. He wanted his photo taken with both our bikes....then another hand shake and touching of our rings he was off.

 I was surprised at the size of Tinga Maria and noted that it was a clean prosperous looking place with numerous large hotels, restaurants and of course traffic. I would soon enter the mountains and more rain but as I descended to the lower elevation just before Huanuco it stopped.

 What is it...he waived as he passed

This mode of transportation is common and I note that from here on the tuk tuks will be hard shelled..the northern ones are all canvas.
 Would soon enter the mountains and more rain.

 Saw many of these along the way/drying beans

 Descent begins ...another 2 hours before Huanuco

The welcoming crew at Around the Block Moto Adventures who purchased the bike and prep ed it for my journey....missing are Toby & Sarah Shannon who are currently in the USA.

Today, I will take a Tuk down town to Star airlines and purchase a ticket for a flight to Lima on the 26th as I fly home to Canada early ( 1:30am ) on the 27th....... 

 Julia on route to Cuenca in better weather than my ride to Huanuco.


Wednesday, March 21, 2018

Moyobamba-Tocache Peru March 20 2018

On the move at 8;15am in 30 degree weather but once I was moving it was comfortable.....the drive was scenic passing by a number of rice fields....stopping to watch workers kneeling or bending in a foot of water planting the plants. Near Bellavista, another road block....this one with tires and men.....they all surrounded me talking....had no idea what they where saying...closed for 6 hours was my understanding....Por Favor, necesito ir Huanuco volar Lima ahora....was all I  could say in Spanish and they relented moving one tire so I could pass. This was the last larger town before I ran into heavy construction on the was stop and go from 1pm on.....then 3 I/2 hours with 90k still to go.......30 of that would be course gravel and mud.....which had me extremely tense as I had gone down hard in mud yesterday hitting my head, spraining my wrist and cutting my being pushed by traffic.......1 1/2 hours in the dark. I could not believe that they would allow 2 way traffic with single track sections many without 2 way control. A Peruvian biker noted my distress and though we had a language barrier he had me follow him and he guided me all the way to Tocache....I never want to have this experience again of night riding in those conditions. At one point I felt the bike wobble and slide to the felt like it was about to the grace of God.. I throttled up and the bike righted....I do not believe I played a part in that until strange.
 View this morning from the hotel terrace
 Breakfast on the terrace

 That was close

 Road earlier not drive at night in South America

 1st stop

 Stopped 3 1/2 hours

 Mud Ahead

 a better section in the earlier riding

 Julia letting me know that she has arrived back in Loja and will head for Cuenca today the 21st..........she had major work completed here with new shocks...previously she thought the rough ride was


Typing this morning and wondering if I should stay another night as it is raining hard and I have about 6 hours to go with more construction ahead........

Monday, March 19, 2018

San Ignacio Peru to Moyobamba Peru- March 19 2018

Today started early, I was on the road at 6;30am...stopped for fuel and directions then set my sights on Tarapoto....a little overly ambitious destination. In the early part I made good progress but rain would slow me down for a couple hours. I am nervous, after yesterday's spin rear tire is worn and seems to slide easily on the yellow center road markings. The scenery has been fabulous, with the early part twisties going down into a fertile valley.....with rice patties for 50 plus kilometers....then it was climbing back up into the mountains......I had to stop and ask or confirm directions a number of times and even with my limited Spanish was able to find my way.....the police have been extremely helpful and friendly. At 8 am I stopped at a bike shop in the country and had my oil changed with 100% Motul......also fixed my bent shifter lever damaged in my slide on the pavement late body armor and pannier bore the brute of the damage. It was getting late and I had just come off of 2 1/2 hours of harsh stone and washboard gravel....rounding a corner leaning left, a little too fast I crossed water cascading onto the road and the wheels went out from under me....I saw sparks as we slide up the pavement and spun around......needed help to lift the bike from a passerby....somewhat embarrassed...should have taken a picture but I was in a hurry to get off the road.
This afternoon I came upon what I thought was an accident...turned out to be a Trucker protest and dozens of tractor trailers had parked sideways....blocking passage for 10 k. I explained to a fellow biker that my Spanish was poor and limited...showed him my hand drawn map and asked if there was an alternate route....a couple fellows riding to up stopped and talked to the 1st biker who I think explained my wish to detour.......they said to follow them and a 25k detour through the ditch and many back roads got me around the trucks. I did have another mishap and did a face plant on a muddy 5k no less....this time I was hurt and stopped early as my left leg is swollen and right wrist sprained....the helmet saved my head......I tried to pay....even used Spanish to explain my desire but the chap only wanted to shake my hands and happy to be of help......he wasn't even going my way and had to ride that shitty road back.....again I cannot express how great all my interactions have been with the South Americans I have encountered.......especially when they have to work so hard to understand my problem......I love South America.

PICS FROM YESTERDAY 60k of rough road but fantastic scenery

 pee break but it's a 100 foot drop  if I slip

 water crossing

 my ride waiting for permission from HEAD OFFICE ADUANA apparently I left Ecuador without proper documentation on the bike...same problem for Ecuador which they fixed at the Colombia the end they relented and let me in.


 Running along the valley at 7 am

 In for repairs to the shift lever and oil change....this shop was in the country homes nearby and more new motorcycle parts than I have seen before in any store 

 The chap in the red shirt is the owner and his helper

 do I go R or bloody signs....showed my hand drawn google map to a passerby ...Left

 the rock ahead is like a half tunnel...and rocks do fall from it.......glad I am wearing a helmet

 here I was fortunate to get help and followed another moto on a 10k detour to Naranjillo but once there, the moto operator inquired if I could continue on...answer no....truckers have that blocked for many K.......they said could take a 25k detour....he dropped his passenger and led me to Nueva Cajamarca. Here he told me how to get out of the city and I spoke Spanish telling him I wanted to pay him for helping me...he refused and said he was happy to help a Canadian......and just wanted to shake hands. Here he turned back to return 25k on that dirt road. 

 Don't drive with one hand taking pics on mud....I went down and almost into that drainage ditch........shortly after taking this.

 fixing my newest crash....wouldn't take any $ but I insisted ...5 soles

 My digs for tonight